July 4, 2012

Huaraz - Trujillo / Cordillera Negra

The road north to Huaraz goes down, until the 1400m bottom point of the Canyon Del Pato. From here, we beggin steep and dirt roads in the harsh Cordillera Negra range. Our new rhytm is dictated by the relieve, 60 km and 1100 to 1800m up per day. In 7 days, we achieve 10600m up to link valleys and valleys...! In these mountains, we don't meet any tourist. Locals are intrigued by our aimless trip. But curious, they bombard us of questions. Encounters are fulfiling. The last day, we reach Trujillo and the Pacific Coast, by cycling 4000m down!


The Canyon del Pato
                               
                          
Water accomplishes a huge work along
 geological times. It beggins with small cascads 
eroding the hard granit, like the one on the 
left, until reaching thousand meters high 
canyons like the impressive Cañon Del Pato.



 Headlight track on tunnels.
Tunnels which enable the road to snake on the side of the canyon

7 days in Cordillera Negra
The starting point of the dirt road in Yuracmarca is a beat tricky. Entering the village, locals told us to get out of the pueblo before turning left, whereas inhabitants in the end of town told us to go back...! We then understand the existance of two roads and opt for the shortest one. The road doesn’t get out where we had imagined! A small detour, recommended by locals led us on the pueblo de Los Baños, where terms and hot pools are more than welcomed.

Valley of La Pampa

The evening of the second days, we arrive in Pillipampa. Asking for an hospedaje, people told us that there is nothing here to sleep. After some negotiations, the mayor find a room with a tall bed and no windows. Children of all the village are arouns us, looking at our bikes. We suggest them to play soccer. The party will run until night. During the dinner, our host family is happy to prepar us a ceña (dinner), telling us that it is the first time they can converss with gringos! That other times tourists pass by, they ate their own food and don't really speak...!


Children of Tauca, in dancing costums


Arriving in Tauca, the mayor of the village motion us to come toward him. He told us that it is the day of the school party, and that children will dance traditionnal dances. We will even get a choice seat on the podium, where only important people of the village can access! Just before the sight, the italian priest give us a tour of the ancient church of the colonial epoch he is actually renoving. After the sight, the mayor invit us to eat some empanaditas with his wife - spontaneous generosity of country people.



Exemple of 'Z' roads we had ride on

After covering the long snaking track which cross the deep valley between Ancash and La Libertad districts, we reach a mining village. On the evning,we eat dinner with two miners. They told us that the proximity mine is a golg mine, with an output of 4g of gold per ton of rock. They work during 20 days in the mine from 5am to 8pm! And then go back to Trujillo during 10 days to have a well merited rest with their families.

Going down to Trujillo
Our trip in the Cordillera Negra ends in Santiago de Chuco, from where, a last ascent lead us to a undulating plateau around 4000m high. Then, we take a breath and literally plunge toward the Pacific Ocean at more than 50km/h speed...

During this crossing on dirt and dust roads, bikes had undergone some hard knocks! 
A broken stroke and a burst air tube for Thomas. A broken brake shoe for Baptiste, which will go 4000m down with only the front break!